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resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-06-03 19:11] – 109.129.58.244 | resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2013-02-08 07:52] (current) – nik | ||
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==== Débrouillardise et Coquetterie ==== | ==== Débrouillardise et Coquetterie ==== | ||
- | notes from a [[: | + | notes from a [[: |
- | Coralie Stalberg, April - May 2012 | + | ===PRESENTATION=== |
- | + | ||
- | + | ||
- | **PRESENTATION** | + | |
**“Débrouillardise et Coquetterie”** is a project on DIY textile practices and associated recycling strategies during a historical period characterized by a radical scarcity of material resources — the Second World War and the years right after the war. In the context of research for a resilient future that would be more sensitive and committed to sustainability, | **“Débrouillardise et Coquetterie”** is a project on DIY textile practices and associated recycling strategies during a historical period characterized by a radical scarcity of material resources — the Second World War and the years right after the war. In the context of research for a resilient future that would be more sensitive and committed to sustainability, | ||
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- | ** | + | ===METHODOLOGY / THEORETICAL=== |
- | METHODOLOGY / THEORETICAL | + | at the crossroad of History, Ethnography and Textile Conservation. |
+ | **History**, | ||
- | - **History**, according to a Microhistory approach (‘search for large answers in small places’), also Altagsgeschichte (history from ‘below’) | + | |
- | + | | |
- | http:// | + | |
- | http:// | + | |
- | http:// | + | |
An inspiring text from Dominique Veillon : http:// | An inspiring text from Dominique Veillon : http:// | ||
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http:// | http:// | ||
- | ** | + | **Anthropology of cloth / Costume History** |
- | ° Anthropology of cloth / Costume History | + | |
- | ** | + | |
« Pour une anthropologie du vêtement » Yves Delaporte, CNRS/Musée de l’Homme | « Pour une anthropologie du vêtement » Yves Delaporte, CNRS/Musée de l’Homme | ||
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- | METHODOLOGY | + | ===Methodology |
+ | |||
+ | * Phenomenology of the encounter (cf fieldwork) | ||
+ | * Assessment of the relational complexity induced by the dynamics of the gift/ | ||
+ | * Design spaces/ | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | [[Some Notes on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====Process==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | ===DOCUMENTING the research topic=== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Fields of interests | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Débrouillardise** | ||
+ | |||
+ | | ||
+ | |||
+ | Repertory of | ||
+ | - Governmental decrees / rationing tickets | ||
+ | -civil societies reactions : from patriotic adhesion to the expression of complaints, black market, smuggling with rationnong tickets, or finding strategies to circumvent the regulations | ||
+ | - punishments in case of contravening the regulations on clothes (procès verbaux) | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | **Coquetterie** | ||
+ | |||
+ | dignity – history of the bodies that is sensitive to a memory of emotions and affect (from proudness to shame, the hiding of precariousness) – costume as overstatement/ | ||
+ | |||
+ | ===Resilience=== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Moral, social and cultural resilience | ||
+ | |||
+ | serie of attitudes for protection (textile as a protective skin) and as potential for creativity comme potentialité créatrice (DIY creativity) , | ||
+ | |||
+ | development of capacities allowing for the psychic transformation of human suffering : in the playfull act of recycling/ | ||
+ | |||
+ | Humour is said to be an important strategy for resilience, a lot of textile practices struck me by their ‘drôlerie’. | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | 1.1. consultation of specialized literature, articles and archives | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[contacted archive centers for resilient WWII textiles|contacted archive centers for resilient WWII textiles]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | 1.2. consultation of experts: | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Irène Guenther** | ||
+ | |||
+ | – Specialist in modern German cultural and gender history | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | ivguenth@central.uh.edu | ||
+ | « Nazi ‘Chic’? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich » | ||
+ | current research on the trench postcard art of German soldiers | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Jonathan Walford** | ||
+ | |||
+ | Founder and Curatorial Director of Fashion History Museum of Canada, Writer | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | wrote « Fourties Fashion, from Siren Suits to the New Look », 2011 | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | **Dominique Veillon** | ||
+ | |||
+ | « La mode sous l’occupation », 1990, éditions Payot. | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | "Vivre et survivre en France 1939 - 1947", ed Payot, 1995 | ||
+ | interesting review: http:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | Hannelore Vandebroek, Nel de Mûelenaere, | ||
+ | cf ETUDE : | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | Le travail des femmes dans la fabrique d' | ||
+ | |||
+ | Cette recherche analyse le travail des femmes dans l' | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience|Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[Communities of Resilients // from the perspective of Clothing as a resistance strategy|Communities of Resilients // from the perspective of Clothing as a resistance strategy]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | ===FIELDWORK=== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Senior centers interested in participation : | ||
+ | - Résidence Arcadia (elderly house Molebeek/ | ||
+ | - LDC Randstad (social restaurant for Seniors, Molenbeek) | ||
+ | - the Institut Pachéco (elderly house in 1000 Brussels), | ||
+ | - ‘Ages et Transmissions’: | ||
+ | - ‘La Mémoire Vivante’ : http:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | The first interviews: | ||
+ | * [[interview therese from uccle|Thérèse from Uccle]] | ||
+ | * [[interview jeanne and jacoba from pacheco|Jeanne and Jacoba from Pachéco]] | ||
+ | * [[interview jeanne van molenbeek|Jeanne van Molenbeek]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | Observations / | ||
+ | (in process) | ||
+ | |||
+ | ====4.CASE STUDIES :: intergenerational workshops==== | ||
+ | (in construction) | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | ====5. TOWARD A LIVING ARCHIVE==== | ||
+ | |||
+ | Search for critical/ | ||
+ | |||
+ | Philosophy | ||
+ | |||
+ | Michel Foucault « The Archeology of Knowledge » : Chapter 5: The Historical a priori and the Archive | ||
+ | |||
+ | Discursive practices involve systems that allow statements to emerge as ' | ||
+ | |||
+ | Paul Ricoeur « Arcives, Documents, Traces » | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | |||
+ | “Any trace left by the past becomes a document for historians […], the most valuable traces are the ones that were not intended for our information.” (2006: 67) | ||
+ | |||
+ | Giorgio Agamben « The Archive and the Testimony » in « Remnants of Auschwit », 1989 | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | “the archive is situated between langue, as the system of construction of possible sentences – that is, of possibilities of speaking – and the corpus that unites the set of what has been said, the things actually uttered or written.” | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | Archive Practices in Contemporary Art | ||
+ | |||
+ | General writings : | ||
+ | |||
+ | Schaffner, Ingrid et Matthias Winzen (éditeurs). 1998. Deep storage: collecting, storing, and archiving in art. Munich ; New York : Prestel, 303 p. | ||
+ | Mokhtari Sylvie (éditeur). 2004. Les Artistes contemporains et l' | ||
+ | |||
+ | Dans Archive Fever Enwezor | ||
+ | |||
+ | Aby M. Warburg, «Mnemosyne-Atlas», | ||
+ | http:// | ||
- | - Phenomenology of the encounter (cf fieldwork) | + | Gerhard Richter, « Atlas », 1962 |
+ | http:// | ||
- | - Assessment of the relational complexity induced by the dynamics of the gift/ | ||
- | - Design spaces/ | + | ==== Interviews ==== |
+ | * [[interview jeanne | ||
+ | * [[interview jeanne van molenbeek]] | ||
+ | * [[interview therese from uccle]] | ||
+ | ==== Notes on methodology==== | ||
+ | * [[some_notes_on_my_personal_methodological_approach]] | ||
+ | * [[some_notes_on_my_way_of_hybridizing_ethnography_with_the_ethics_of_textile_conservation]] | ||
- | [[Some Notes on my personal methodological approach|Some Notes on my personal methodological approach]] | + | ---- |