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resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-06-03 19:07] – 109.129.58.244 | resilients:debrouillardise_et_coquetterie [2012-06-03 20:52] – 109.129.58.244 | ||
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- | METHODOLOGY / EXPERIENTIAL PART : (in construction) | + | **METHODOLOGY / EXPERIENTIAL PART** : (in construction) |
- Phenomenology of the encounter (cf fieldwork) | - Phenomenology of the encounter (cf fieldwork) | ||
Line 70: | Line 70: | ||
- Assessment of the relational complexity induced by the dynamics of the gift/ | - Assessment of the relational complexity induced by the dynamics of the gift/ | ||
- | - Design spaces/ | + | - Design spaces/ |
+ | [[Some Notes : on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation|Some Notes : on my way of hybridizing ethnography with the ethics of textile conservation]] | ||
- | [[Some Notes on my personal methodological approach|Some Notes on my personal methodological approach]] | + | PROCESS |
- | | + | |
- | For ‘Débrouillardise et Coquetterie’ I want to hybridize my ‘ethnographical – encounter’ practice with tools from textile conservation. | ||
- | At the core of my ethnographical practice lies LISTENING to the other, as a receiving and a taking care of its story. Hosting | + | 1. **DOCUMENTING** |
- | Somewhere in between ethics and Sensoriality/ | + | Fields of interests : |
- | Textile is for me intimately related to touching, I like touching with closed eyes. Feeling softness, rugosity, holes, threads. | + | **Débrouillardise** |
- | As listening with the closed eyes is every time again a beautiful | + | |
- | Receiving | + | Repertory of |
+ | - Governmental decrees / rationing tickets | ||
+ | -civil societies reactions : from patriotic adhesion to the expression | ||
+ | - punishments in case of contravening the regulations on clothes (procès verbaux) | ||
- | Textile pieces and threads came up as ‘CONCRETE’ METAPHORS for the sensations i like to focus on when I interview and listen. | ||
- | Deepening the experience of touching a textile, learning the words, concepts and parameters used to analyze a piece of cloth would allows to receive more complex insights in the textures of voices given to me during the process, by analogy-thinking. | + | **Coquetterie** |
- | Textile conservation came up as the most complete approach | + | dignity – history of the bodies that is sensitive |
- | If the operating concepts of textile conservation seduced me to apply them on the sensorial level of the voices of my interviewees, | + | ** |
+ | Resilience** | ||
- | Textile conservation also attrackts me as a discipline: | + | Moral, social and cultural resilience |
- | Because it is a lived, bodily practice to focus on minutiae – as this focus is also central to my practice of ethnography. | + | serie of attitudes for protection (textile as a protective skin) and as potential for creativity comme potentialité créatrice (DIY creativity) , |
- | The infinite pleasure I have of focussing on « little » things, I am curious to apply them through textile | + | development |
+ | |||
+ | Humour is said to be an important strategy for resilience, a lot of textile | ||
- | « Little » things are disscrete and apparently insignificant thruths, that I search for in my ethnographical explorations. ; | ||
+ | 1.1. consultation of specialized literature, articles and archives | ||
- | Values of the conservator that I admire: | + | [[contacted archive centers for resilient WWII textiles|contacted archive centers for resilient WWII textiles]] |
- | -Sticking to the concrete | + | |
- | -Taking utmost care of the piece you are in charge of | + | |
- | -Humility in the presence of the object | + | |
- | -Respect of the integrity of the object | + | |
- | -Develop a deep affinity with the object | + | |
- | -Commitment to extremely slow processes | + | |
- | -Accept that after the short moment of excitement you will commit to a long time of routine tasks, you will be bored. | + | |
- | -Minutiae /Precision of craftmanship. | + | |
- | The textile conservator is constantly involved in finding out all kind of strategies | + | 1.2. consultation |
- | I became more and more curious to apply metaphorically | + | **Irène Guenther** |
+ | – Specialist in modern German cultural | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | ivguenth@central.uh.edu | ||
+ | « Nazi ‘Chic’? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich » | ||
+ | current research | ||
- | FINDINGS: | + | **Jonathan Walford** |
+ | Founder and Curatorial Director of Fashion History Museum of Canada, Writer | ||
+ | http:// | ||
+ | wrote « Fourties Fashion, from Siren Suits to the New Look », 2011 | ||
+ | http:// | ||
- | The Nature of the piece of textile is of fundamental influence on what can be at best done to preserve it. This rules inspires me ver much… but which words to define the nature of a story ? | + | **Dominique Veillon** |
- | Tex Conservation nations that are ‘operative’ or applying them on ‘narratives’ : | + | « La mode sous l’occupation », 1990, éditions Payot. |
+ | http:// | ||
+ | "Vivre et survivre en France 1939 - 1947", ed Payot, 1995 | ||
+ | interesting review: http:// | ||
- | Texture of the piece of cloth : its fabric | + | Hannelore Vandebroek, Nel de Mûelenaere, |
+ | cf ETUDE : | ||
+ | http:// | ||
- | Characteristics : | + | Le travail des femmes dans la fabrique d' |
- | Loose patterns Zig Zag Patterns | + | |
- | Unevenness in tension | + | |
- | Missing parts | + | |
- | Schilferend | + | |
- | Scheuren | + | |
- | Extreme cases of total fragmentation | + | |
- | Qualities: | + | Cette recherche analyse le travail des femmes dans l' |
- | Extensibility | + | |
- | Elastic limit | + | |
- | Flexibility | + | |
- | Density | + | |
+ | [[Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience|Sidenotes historical readings WII - Tex - Resilience]] | ||
- | Folds | + | [[Communities of Resilients // from the perspective of Clothing as a resistance strategy|Communities of Resilients // from the perspective of Clothing as a resistance strategy]] |
- | Size – weight – complexity | + | **FIELDWORK** |
+ | Senior centers interested in participation : | ||
+ | -Résidence Arcadia (elderly house Molebeek/ | ||
+ | -LDC Randstad (social restaurant for Seniors, Molenbeek) | ||
+ | -the Institut Pachéco (elderly house in 1000 Brussels), | ||
+ | -‘Ages et Transmissions’: | ||
+ | -‘La Mémoire Vivante’ : http:// | ||
- | Fragile zones | ||
+ | The first interviews: | ||
+ | -[[Interview Débrouillardise et Coquetterie: | ||
+ | -[[Interview Débrouillardise et Coquetterie: | ||
+ | -[[Interview Débrouillardise et Coquetterie: | ||
- | How much repair needed ? | ||
- | How much alteration has bien carried out ? | ||
+ | Observations / | ||
+ | (in process) | ||
- | The irreductible individuality of the story. | + | **4.CASE STUDIES :: intergenerational workshops** |
+ | (in construction) | ||
+ | **5. TOWARD A LIVING ARCHIVE** | ||
+ | Search for critical/ | ||
- | Actions / Performatives: | + | Philosophy |
- | -cleaning | + | Michel Foucault « The Archeology |
- | -sewing (steunweefsel naaien) : the stories I collect from elderly spontenously receives ‘steunweefsels’ from helping people surrounding, for example from other pensionees, or from their children | + | Discursive practices involve systems that allow statements to emerge as ' |
- | -To raise the piece of cloth/ to raise the story | + | Paul Ricoeur « Arcives, Documents, Traces » |
- | -To cover the piece of cloth/ To cover the story | + | http://www.scribd.com/doc/ |
- | -Framing, positioning the piece of cloth/ the story | + | |
- | -Unroll the cloth/ the story | + | |
- | Pinning : involves making holes, or having marks that tends to remain | + | “Any trace left by the past becomes a document for historians […], the most valuable traces are the ones that were not intended for our information.” (2006: 67) |
- | Transfer to other contexts : the fragile condition | + | Giorgio Agamben « The Archive and the Testimony » in « Remnants |
+ | http:// | ||
+ | “the archive is situated between langue, as the system of construction of possible sentences – that is, of possibilities of speaking – and the corpus that unites the set of what has been said, the things actually uttered or written.” | ||
- | Unprotected condition of the released object/ | ||
- | What does this displacement of concept from the conrete realm of the cloth pieces to the immaterial realm of the words and narratives mean to me, and what does they mean to you ? | + | Archive Practices in Contemporary Art |
- | IN TEX CONSERVATIONS AND IN MY ETHNOGRAHICAL ENDEAVOURS, WE BOTH WORK WITH OBJECTS/ | + | General writings : |
- | At risk of dissapearing. | + | Schaffner, Ingrid et Matthias Winzen (éditeurs). 1998. Deep storage: collecting, storing, and archiving in art. Munich ; New York : Prestel, 303 p. |
+ | Mokhtari Sylvie (éditeur). 2004. Les Artistes contemporains et l' | ||
- | Decaying is part of their very essence. | + | Dans Archive Fever Enwezor |
- | The responsability | + | Aby M. Warburg, «Mnemosyne-Atlas», |
- | + | http://www.mediaartnet.org/works/mnemosyne/ | |
- | + | ||
- | + | ||
- | Some Notes on my apprenticeship in Textile Conservation: | + | |
- | + | ||
- | + | ||
- | Hands on ! | + | |
- | course followed at the Kunstakademie of Anderlecht, sectie ambachtskunsten. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | http://www.academieanderlecht.be/index.php? | + | |
- | + | ||
- | teacher : http://jokevandermeersch.be/ | + | |
- | + | ||
- | Joke has an impressive knowledge in chemistry, crafts, art history and insects. She tries with a lot of patience to transmit me the basic skills of a textile conservator. The skills needed in this course are very challenging and difficult to me : patience, concentration, | + | |
- | + | ||
- | Something Joke says that I like very much : « Behandel elk stuk alsof het het meest waardevolle ter wereld is. » | + | |
- | + | ||
- | I still can’t separate the Gutterman thread into its 3 consitutive threads. It’s a kind of choregraphy with the fingers you have to master, I just can’ grasp it. We have to do this because when restauring a piece we have to use the finest thread possible, so that the intervention is as invisible as possible. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | I like the cleaning ritual of textile conservation : | + | |
- | Conservators have to obsessionally clean their hands before manipulating the cloth pieces, but also regularly during the process. First year students have the tendency to forget this, so part of the teaching process of Joke is to repeat it all over again… | + | |
- | + | ||
- | In the beginning of the apprenticeship we learn : | + | |
- | + | ||
- | -the core (ethical) values of conservation through the little gestures of the practice, ‘richtlijnen bij het manipuleren’ | + | |
- | + | ||
- | - how to make a ‘behandelingsrapport’ : identification form of the textile piece, description (from technique to art history background) // condition report every action that is executed on the piece of textile has to be thoroughly documented (through pictures, calques, draing, samples, formulas…) cf. ‘dagboek der werkzaamheden’ | + | |
- | + | ||
- | + | ||
- | - to make a support fabric and a protection fabric, to learn the most important sewing techniques in this regard | + | |
- | + | ||
- | + | ||
- | Bibliography : | + | |
- | + | ||
- | « Textile Conservation: | + | |
- | + | ||
- | + | ||
- | « Textile conservation and research: a documentation of the textile department on the occasion of the twentieth anniversary of the Abegg Foundation », by Flury-Lemberg, | + | |
- | + | ||
- | + | ||
- | « The textile conservator' | + | |
+ | Gerhard Richter, « Atlas », 1962 | ||
+ | http:// | ||